Friday, January 14, 2011

The Northern Neck and Tangier Island

A watermen's shack, Tangier Island, Virginia.
To toast the end of graduate school, the DINKs took a small getaway to the Northern Neck of Virginia.  About 3 hours from DC, the Northern Neck is a spit of land that juts out between the Potomac River and Chesapeake Bay.  Several islands that rest in the Bay are accessible by ferry along the Northern Neck.  The islands and the Northern Neck have long histories when compared to other parts of the United States.  Old plantations--including Robert E. Lee's birthplace, Stratford Hall Plantation (constructed in 1738!). The Captain and Explorer John Smith visited Tangier Island.  The tiny island community has attracted the attention of linguists because its people speak a unique English Restoration era dialect of American English. Each of the original surnames and several of the present surnames on the island originated in the United Kingdom, predominantly from Scotland.  The DINKs were fascinated to visit one of these islands (others include Smith Island and Tilghman Island). 

Roadsign sinking into the marshland, Tangier Island, Virginia.
We took a ferry from Reedville on a clear and hot July morning--choosing to take daytrip, but stay on the mainland.  I have to say, we were sort of disappointed.  The island was compact and walkable, but there really wasn't much to see.  For a place that has had people on it since the 1600s, I guess I expected more.  It's just a small fishing community.  I don't regret the trip, but I was ready to get on the ferry at 2:30 and I am glad we stayed in Reedville on the mainland.  We chose the B&B, The Gables, built in the early 20th century by a wealthy fishermen (the area is famous for menhaden--a type of little fish that is used in everything).  We had a room in an annex  (the homes old carriage house), steps away from the Bay.  After the daytrip to Tangier, we spent the late afternoon sitting on the lawn, watching the water and a family of osprey.  The next morning, we wandered around the quiet streets of Reedville, impressed that all the houses had lovely water views and water access, then spent an interesting hour exploring the Reedville Fishermen's Museum and learned all there is to know about menhaden.  We then slowly made our way back to DC, stopping at Oak Crest Vineyard in King George.  And then stopped for crabcakes right along the Bay.  Overall, the weekend was a nice blend of nature, history and relaxation.  It reminded us that Virginia has a lot of interesting things to offer and a rich history!

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