Saturday, January 22, 2011

Belfast, Northern Ireland.

Kevin enjoying a Guinness and the sun, Belfast
After a lovely and nostalgic trip to London, the DINKs were ready to cut their teeth on a new city.  So we took a quick flight to Belfast and spent two lovely days exploring the vibrant city that still has deep scars from years of turmoil, but you feel a positive energy and hope they have turned a corner.  I know I left feeling optimistic (but then again, it was sunny and bright, so having lovely weather makes everything better). 

Where we stayed.  Dukes at Queens is a lovely boutique hotel right in the university district.  I highly recommend this hotel--spacious, updated rooms and the university district with its vibrant cafe and music scene is terrific.
The lovely Palm House, Belfast Botanic Gardens
What we did.  Steps away from our hotel was the Belfast Botanic Gardens with its 18th century Palm House. As soon as we dumped our bags at the hotel, we spent a leisurely afternoon wandering the gardens as well as touring the very informative Ulster Musuem, which rests in the middle of the park space.  Being in the university neighborhood, we had access to the music scene and were just two blocks from The Belfast Empire Music Hall.  Besides exploring the university neighborhood, we decided to do a black cab tour, which takes you to Falls Road and Shankill Road (the Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods that carry murals and stories from "The Troubles").  The tour was emotional and confusing.  As an American used to living among people with many different faiths and convictions, you realize this is beyond a religious feud--that's too simplistic.  But it reminded me how senseless violence can become and how many innocent people get impacted by it. Good lessons to take away from the trip.
Kevin signing the partition, known as "the PeaceWall," Belfast


Where we ate:  Full disclosure...I thought we would mainly be eating potatoes and fish and chips. Believe it or not, we had some terrific fare in Northern Ireland and one memorable meal was Deanes at Queens.  This restaurant, part of the Michael Deane empire in Belfast believes in using local sources and offers traditional, but stylish food.  We also went to the most famous saloon in Belfast, the Crown Bar, for traditional pub fare.  It is a lovely space and if you eat lunch you get to sit in the private booths that line the space. 
Mural from Shankill Road--the unionist section.
I really enjoyed our time in Belfast--sometimes somber, other times beautiful--it's a city that should be on your list.

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