London: a lovely stopover.



Kevin in front of Tower Bridge during our 1-day stop.

When we travel, we strive to have few connections and for the trip to take the fewest hours (because who likes the actual act of getting from Point A to Point B?).  This means we are willing to pay a bit more for nonstop flights and it also means loyalty to a specific airline is not that easy. 

Getting to Symi, Greece this summer was not possible in one simple flight as it was when we headed to Vienna on Austrian Airlines later in the year.  Because of turmoil on Athens, we also made the decision we wanted to fly directly to Rhodes (the island with the closest airport to Symi). 

We made the decision to book a flight on our favorite airline Virgin Atlantic to get from DC to London.  Spend a day and night in London and then book a flight on our least favorite airline Ryanair to finish the trip and arrive in Rhodes in the middle of the afternoon in time for lunch and the afternoon hydrofoil. 

A pretty pub in South London near the Globe.

We strategically booked a hotel in the financial district because (1) we had not really explored this part of London and (2) the train to Stansted Airport (more on that in a later post) left from Liverpool Street Station, which was right around the corner.  We stayed at the Apex London Wall, which was sophisticated and tucked on a quiet street. We dumped our stuff and headed towards the Thames, walking by the Tower of London and crossing the Tower Bridge into South London.  Walking the footpath along the Thames, we passed the Globe and stopped into the Tate Modern, which I had not visited since 2002 so it was time for a return visit.

We stopped for a requisite fish-and-chip lunch and a warm ale (it was surprisingly brisk for late June!) before heading back to shower and relax.  It was fun to be in London's Financial District on a Friday afternoon in June.  Office workers packed all the pubs, literally people were pouring out of the establishments and empty pint glasses littered the sidewalks.  We decided to visit Brick Lane in the East End for Indian food as one must have Indian food when visiting the UK from the US. Before we reached Brick Lane, we stopped at a pub to have a pre-dinner drink and take in the Murray/Nadal semi-final match being played nearby in Wimbledon.  Murray lost.  We finished our pints and headed to dinner.

Brick Lane is quite the experience.  As you walk down the street, restaurant staff badger you, imploring you to come into their establishments, promising the best deal on the street!  It's not a typical scene for London, but it was fun for an evening and after wandering the street for a bit, we decided on a place and had a lovely meal before wandering back to the hotel.

Holland Park, London.

On the flip side of our journey from Greece, we also spent a day and evening in London.  This time, we chose to be on the Piccadilly Line near Earl's Court.  We stayed at a small, boutique hotel called Twenty Nevern Square.  It was situated on a leafy square and an easy walk from Holland Park.  We enjoyed wandering through the green streets and park space, reveling in the lush plants after the arid climate of Symi.  We found a Thai restaurant right outside Holland Park and enjoyed a break from the Greek taverna fare that had dominated our dinners.

The blur of monument and nature: Brompton Cemetery

The next morning we had a chance for one final walk through the streets of London and we stumbled upon Brompton Cemetery.  We were charmed by the wild, yet managed space.  Because it was early morning, we had the cemetery to ourselves and quietly strolled along the path.  Overhead, international flights rumbled in for landings at Heathrow.  As we made our way to the gate to collect our luggage and head to the airport, I took a deep, appreciative breath that we were able to bookend the trip with breaks in London.

Choosing the Right Hotel.

I just had to book a couple of rooms for our trip to Greece this summer (we are bookending our time in Greece with time in London).  Since I have hotels on the brain, figured I'd blog about it and share a few ideas:

1.  Location, location, location.  Duh, that's a no brainer, right?  But choosing the right location for you really varies based on the purpose of your trip.  For instance, our flight to Rhodes leaves quite early from London Stansted so for this trip to London, I chose the Apex London Wall hotel--an easy walk to Liverpool Street Station, which is where you catch the Stansted Express train.  This hotel sits in the Financial District, which is quiet on weekends and not maybe ideal for tourists, but for our specific needs--it's perfect!  On the flip side of the trip, I picked a more central location, Earl's Court, which is on the Picadilly line--the line that leads directly to Heathrow.

Our hotel in Amsterdam was an easy walk
to the Central train station.

2.  Transportation.  This definitely dovetails with point one.  Ensuring your hotel is an easy walk from a subway line or central train station will only enhance your trip.  I always map out my location on Google Maps and read TripAdvisor to get a sense of the location.  (This also helps you gain a familiarity with the area even before you arrive.) When in Europe, you know urban areas are going to have decent transportation--so take advantage of it!  A good example from our travels is Hotel New Amsterdam (now known as Chic & Basic) in the Jordaan.  The location--a somewhat residential neighborhood (which I loved) is an easy ten-minute walk to the central train station. 

We stayed in the borough of Frogner on the second leg
of our trip to Oslo...the first part we stayed more central.

3.  Know thy neighborhoods.  When visiting a city for the very first time, I spend a good chunk of time just researching neighborhoods.  Of course, I am thinking about safety, but also I am considering my personal tastes.  If I know people who have visited a city, I'll ask them about areas they would recommend, too.  I also like to stay in different locations on repeat visits.  For instance, when we went to Spain a few years ago, we stayed for the first part of the trip in the heart of it all--the Austrias quarter, which is in the center of Madrid, close to the Palace and shops, cafes, and of course...subway stops (the Opera Metro station).  On the way out of Spain, we chose to stay up near the embassies and business district in the Salamanca region of the city--also easier to reach the airport from this location.  We did the same thing for a trip to Oslo a few years back--staying at the front-end of the trip in a central section of town and on the way out picking a quieter, more tranquil section of Oslo, the Frogner borough near the famous Frogner Park.

4.  Use all available resources.  I use TripAdvisor and Frommer's as the two main places to explore lodging options.  If I find a hotel I like, I always go to the hotel's Web site to check for specials.  Using Google Maps to see the location and the "search nearby" option on Google Maps will bring up restaurants or other hotel choices. 

5.  Consider your priorities.  Is it all about saving some cash?  Would you prefer a hotel that has breakfast included?   Do you like big chains that are reliable or funky, small boutiques?  Do you avoid the B&B concept because you hate country kitsch?  Do you have to have a pool?  Good views?  There are a million more questions, but be clear on your top needs and you'll find the perfect place. Happy Searching!

Belfast, Northern Ireland.

Kevin enjoying a Guinness and the sun, Belfast

After a lovely and nostalgic trip to London, the DINKs were ready to cut their teeth on a new city.  So we took a quick flight to Belfast and spent two lovely days exploring the vibrant city that still has deep scars from years of turmoil, but you feel a positive energy and hope they have turned a corner.  I know I left feeling optimistic (but then again, it was sunny and bright, so having lovely weather makes everything better). 

Where we stayed.  Dukes at Queens is a lovely boutique hotel right in the university district.  I highly recommend this hotel--spacious, updated rooms and the university district with its vibrant cafe and music scene is terrific.

The lovely Palm House, Belfast Botanic Gardens

What we did.  Steps away from our hotel was the Belfast Botanic Gardens with its 18th century Palm House. As soon as we dumped our bags at the hotel, we spent a leisurely afternoon wandering the gardens as well as touring the very informative Ulster Musuem, which rests in the middle of the park space.  Being in the university neighborhood, we had access to the music scene and were just two blocks from The Belfast Empire Music Hall.  Besides exploring the university neighborhood, we decided to do a black cab tour, which takes you to Falls Road and Shankill Road (the Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods that carry murals and stories from "The Troubles").  The tour was emotional and confusing.  As an American used to living among people with many different faiths and convictions, you realize this is beyond a religious feud--that's too simplistic.  But it reminded me how senseless violence can become and how many innocent people get impacted by it. Good lessons to take away from the trip.

Kevin signing the partition, known as "the PeaceWall," Belfast

Where we ate:  Full disclosure...I thought we would mainly be eating potatoes and fish and chips. Believe it or not, we had some terrific fare in Northern Ireland and one memorable meal was Deanes at Queens.  This restaurant, part of the Michael Deane empire in Belfast believes in using local sources and offers traditional, but stylish food.  We also went to the most famous saloon in Belfast, the Crown Bar, for traditional pub fare.  It is a lovely space and if you eat lunch you get to sit in the private booths that line the space. 

Mural from Shankill Road--the unionist section.

I really enjoyed our time in Belfast--sometimes somber, other times beautiful--it's a city that should be on your list.

Petersham's Nursery in Richmond and the Kew Gardens.

Back in 1999, I visited the Kew Gardens, but Kevin a plant lover, had never been so we definitely wanted to take a daytrip out there (it's quite a distance from the center of London).  I then discovered a unique restaurant one stop down in Richmond--a city I had never seen--and figured we would have the perfect daytrip.

Anne in front of the giant lillies, Water Lily House, Kew Gardens

Kew Gardens:  We arrived as soon as it opened since we had lunch reservations in Richmond.  It's a good 45-minute subway ride from central London. Kew Gardens is quite close to the Tube station--you stroll a few blocks, past a quaint shopping square and a row of residential homes and arrive at the Victorian gate.  Kew Gardens is a mishmash of botanist laboratories, historic conservatories, themed gardens and--of course-- a palace.  If you like plants, it's a must-see sort of destination.  There are several Victorian-era green houses filled with exotic and rare plants.  The oldest potted plant in the world is at the Kew--dating from the 1600s.  The day was cool and the DINKs enjoyed going visiting the very humid Palm House as it reminded them of their climate at home in DC!  The Kew Gardens is a perfect place to explore a bit then lounge about and have a picnic lunch, but we had plans for the meal and scooted  back to the Tube.



Richmond:  This city located along the Thames, is a posh London suburb filled with parks, a quaint downtown, and the famous Richmond palace, built by Henry the VII.  I wish we could have lingered a bit in the shops, but we had to make our way outside of Richmond to the little cafe and garden center known as Petersham's Nursery.



Kevin @ Petersham's Nursery for our shabby chic, gourmet lunch.



Petersham's Nursery:  I had first read about this restaurant in a food review.  Dubbed the "Chez Panisse" of the UK, Petersham's Nursery, prides itself on using local incredients, but the really charming thing about the places is location--an operating gaden center!  The floor is packed dirt and the staff walk around in wellies.  Other than the very slow service (seriously, they may have been growing some of the vegetables while we waited), I loved this experience.  The environment was just lovely.  The food was incredible:  warm chick pea, swiss chard and ricotta salad, braised endive, perfectly seared trout.  Yes, it may have been the most expensive lunch I have ever had, but for me, an experience like that is why I live and why I travel. 

Kevin on the scenic, quaint, oh-so-British footpath to Petersham's Nursery.

One of the best parts of Petersham's is walking from the Richmond Tube Station.  It's not close--almost a 25 minute walk.  We walked through the city center to reach the cafe, but on the way back, we chose to walk along a towpath by the Thames.  We passed meadows and old estates, lovely parks and cafes.  Richmond is worth a daytrip and if you are a foodie and like to splurge, so is Petersham's Nursery.

Returning to Richmond after lunch by way of the towpath along the Thames River.









Our London visit

Classic London Scene, near Covet Gardens.

For people who know me, they know I am an anglophile.  I love Jane Austen.  I love Jane Austen-inspired movies.  I love the old English manors, the English gardens, and the charming accent.  But I love London the most.  It's an efficient, clean, old, lively city. I love the Tube, the Museums, the string of parks.  I had not visited London since 2002, so I was eager to see it again and ensure I was not romanticizing it.  I can say: I was not disappointed.

Where we stayed:  Near Russell Square on the first leg at the Harlingford Hotel.  Situated on a quiet square, it was clean and in the heart of the university district.  I remember a fine breakfast of eggs and smoked salmon, too.

When we swept through the city on the way back home, we picked a different section of London (we do try to do that when we have to stay in a city twice).  Because it was just one night, we went a bit more upscale, choosing the The Beaufort Hotel  in Knightsbridge, steps away from Harrod's and an easy walk to the V&A Museum.  This hotel was soft and sumptuous, tucked away on a dead-end street--stylish London was at our fingertips, but I didn't hear it!

The lovely sunken gardens at Kensington Palace.

Where we ate:  Being foodies, traveling for me is always about exploring the local restaurant scene.  The first night, I wanted to try the Spanish tapas place Saltyard on Goodge Street, but alas, we didn't make a reservation and they were booked.  We found a great little Greek Taverna close buy and satiated our tapas craving with Greek mezzes.  Because this was part nostalgia, we had to go to Sofra Mayfair--this little Turkish place has been part of my London eating trips since the beginning.  It's cozy and tucked away--oh and the food is fabulous.  On our final night, we walked all the way to Notting Hill to take in a final Indian meal at Malabar.  We feasted on chutneys and chaat--oh how I love Indian food!

What we did:  I'm going to do a whole post about our daytrips to Bath and Richmond/The Kew Gardens, but in London proper, we did our typical wanderings--exploring Covet Gardens, Goodge Street, Soho/Chinatown (where we had the most disappointing Chinese meal--ever!) and the University districts.  Kevin had not been to the British Museum so of course we went there.  We both had not seen the Victoria & Albert Museum so we took that one in, too.  Both museums have world-class collections.  I love how the British Museum is topical-- a room full of currencies, followed by a room full of clocks, followed by a room full of mummies!  We took in several parks and visited my favorite garden: the http://www.hrp.org.uk/KensingtonPalace/stories/sunkengardens.aspx on the final night.  A fitting way to wrap up the trip!