Missing Connections, but making it work: a story.

For the vast majority of flights, we choose to fly nonstop and direct.  The stress of making connections and risk of losing luggage are not the most joyful aspects of traveling so avoiding them is worth it, even if it requires a slightly more expensive ticket.  If we have to connect, we pick a city with lots of options or for instance if  I'm flying to Europe, I prefer to connect in Europe (at least you've made it across the pond) then getting stuck in Atlanta or New York, for instance.

But sometimes connections are inevitable.  We had a wedding in Austin and made the decision to fly out  of DCA rather  than taking a nonstop, direct flight from BWI or IAD.  This ended up being a mistake, but we made a bad situation better with some quick thinking, here's the story:

A pleasant surprise duirng our
ORD lay-over: Rick Bayless grub!

We arrived at DCA only to learn the flight to DFW was delayed by TWO HOURS because...a pilot called in sick! A long line snaked from the counter as the airline officials started calling out connections that were going to be missed because of the late arrival in Dallas.  I heard Austin being announced and my heart sank.  We joined the long line and on impulse, I made the decision to call American Airlines while waiting to speak to the person at the desk.  The call was patched through immediately and she informed me if we took the next Dallas flight we could get to Austin by 7:30 p.m., meaning a major lay-over in Dallas (it was only about 8:30 eastern time at this point).  I asked her to see if there other ways of reaching Austin and suggested Chicago perhaps knowing flights to ORD happened quite often, in fact one was boarding as I was talking to her.  She confirmed that if we made the ORD flight that was boarding right then, we could make a 12:30 flight from ORD and get to Austin by mid afternoon.  The problem was the flight closes 15 minutes before it departs so she couldn't access the flight to add us, but she confirmed there was room.  I asked her to stay on the line and charged towards the ORD flight.  They were in the final boarding call and although one official basically told us "screw you," but another official calmly added us and apologized that we wouldn't sit together on this leg.  I was so grateful for the American Airlines official on the phone as well as at the desk for making it all work for us.

We did face about a 3-hour lay-over in Chicago, but it was better than the multiple hours we would have been sitting in DCA and then DFW.  Life got a lot better when we discovered a newly opened Rick Bayless tacqueria at ORD.  We wandered around the airport and discovered a very pleasant indoor garden space.  We also ended up getting seats next to each other on the leg from Chicago to Austin and we arrived by 3, allowing us to go for a walk, take a shower and grab a beer!

The lesson to this story: use every available option.  I ended up having amazing luck calling the American Airlines reservations department.  I also knew the other major hubs for American so I could help guide our choices.  I also had to be a bit pushy.  Maybe some would have heard the final boarding call and said, oh well.  I, on the other hand, thought: we can still make this happen!

The du Pont gardens: Winterthur and Longwood

Although just in our 30s, Kevin and I are avid fans of gardens as well as gardening (although we lack any serious space).  Friends raved about their recent visit to Winterthur and several travel articles made me curious to see Longwood Gardens so I plotted a May visit to these two gardens. 

The Quarry Garden at Winterthur.

About 2.5 hours from our home, we drove up on a Saturday morning with plans to visit Winterthur in the later morning and early afternoon and then head to the hotel and see Longwood Gardens on Sunday. 

Although in the 60s, the skies were a gloomy gray, but luckily, we didn't encounter any rain.  Winterthur allows picnics so we packed our lunch and ended up having a lovely meal among the blooming azaleas.  They offer a garden tour tram, which is operated by a friendly and informative driver.  It's good to take because it allows you get oriented with the 1,000 acre garden and the different sections of it.  The general admission price gives you a chance to tour the building, which from the outside is not really impressive.  Henry Francis du Pont, who really made Winterthur what it is today, was interested in gardening, breeding cattle, and collecting early American furniture.  He actually purchased entire rooms of homes that were being torn down and installed them in his spaces at Winterthur.  I have to say, I'm not a big antique furniture person so I didn't find the house tour that interesting and the gardens were good, but not amazing.  Still, it's worth a visit.

We headed to our hotel, the Inn at Montchanin Village to relax and allow me to get a massage at the hotel's spa facility. This hotel used to be housing for families who were employed at the Gunpowder Company.  The housing has been carefully restored and converted into a series of hotel rooms.  Besides taking advantage of the spa, we made dinner easy and walked to the hotel's restaurant Krazy Kat.  The food and service were excellent.  I had squash blossoms, which you rarely see on menus.

The next morning, we enjoyed a great diner-style breakfast at Lucky's Coffee Shop and took a small walk on a river trail in Brandywine Creek State Park.  We then headed over to Longwood Gardens just 10 minutes away in Kenwood, Pennsylvania for a 10:30 timed entry. 

The amazing and expansive conservatory at Longwood.

If you like gardens, you'll love Longwood.  Unlike Winterthur, the gardens are the focus and they are impressive.  Pierce du Pont, like Henry Frances du Pont, had a clear vision of his gardens becoming public space for all to enjoy. The glass conversatory is one of the largest I think I've ever visited and filled with rooms that delight and surprise.  The Italian Water garden is lovely and I was quite fond of all the formal, flower garden walk. 

Despite the cloudy conditions (which you really can't plan for), the weekend was really lovely and relaxing.

A Peek at the Baltimore Beer Scene.

As members of a DC-area beer club, we headed north to a city 40 miles away to explore its beer scene.  Baltimore and Washington, DC, couldn't be more different in some ways.  But both have vibrant and emerging beer scenes.  Here's a step-by-step look at our pub crawl:

The Ravens tailgate bus was not a fan favorite at Max's.

Stop 1.  After a minor diversion at the Fells Point Pirate festival (no joke), we started our beer tour at Max's Taphouse.  Although we weren't impressed by the Ravens decor, being fans of other AFC North teams, we were impressed by the 140 rotating drafts available.  Its location, in the heart of Fells Point, is also a plus.

Mahaffey's: The greatest neighbor
bar in Baltimore.

Stop 2.  Mahaffey's Pub has the best happy hour on the planet if you are a beer lover.  3 pints of craft beer for $5.  The catch?  You have to order 3 pints at a time.  Well, that's no problem for a party of 8!  Although several of us had already been to this Canton neighborhood bar, we demanded a return trip because, well, it's just an amazing deal and one to savor. 

Stop 3.  As the day wore on and our bellies became full with craft beer, we made one final stop before a scheduled rest period at our hotel.  We circled back to Fell's Point to lounge outside of Ale Mary's.  I enjoyed a good white ale before catching a cab back to the hotel.

Enjoying an al fresco beer at Ale Mary's.

Stop 4.  After a needed break, we all convened for dinner and more beer (for those still able to indulge, let's face it many had turned to wine and water at this point...we're not in our 20s anymore!).  Another stop familiar to some, but not to all in our group:  The Brewer's Art.  This place brews their own beers and turns out gourmet food from its kitchens.  It is set in an old bank in the Mount Vernon neighborhood.  Very classy, very cool.

Stop 5.  The next morning, we had lunch/brunch at Alewife, which is closer to the Inner Harbor area of Baltimore.  Great beer list and pleasing pub food.  I should note that only two people ordered a beer so it is probably worth going back and not making it the last stop!

St. Mary's City.

A replica of the former chapel, St. Mary's City.

I'm not sure what we were expecting.  Perhaps the lesson here is to do a little bit of research before a proposed daytrip!  But, St. Mary's City was just not what we thought it was.  Instead of a historical, yet working city, we found a Williamsburg-like experience--a sort of hands-on-history tour of one of the first settlements in the United States.  (Actually it was a former capital of the Maryland colony.)

Recreated barns and houses, St. Mary's City, MD.

Here's the question I have for myself after the visit to St. Mary's City: why didn't I do some research?  Why did we assume it was something it wasn't?  We envisioned walking along a main street and eating lunch at a little restaurant.  Instead, we found interpretive trails through replica buildings and footprints of other buildings marked off so we had a virtual sense of the former village.  I'm not complaining here.  I'm just blogging about this as a lesson: know where you are going!  This sort of trip would be great if our parents were in town.  It was the off-season sort of so we had the recreated settlement to ourselves mostly. 

A small graveyard attached to an old church,
overlooks the Chesapeake Bay.

Still, I think we returned home thinking we wasted an afternoon.  Weekends are so quick, so fleeting that a disappointing daytrip can make you feel that you didn't get the most out of your free time!

Spring Visit to Richmond



The renovated capital building, Richmond, VA.

The Jefferson Hotel, Richmond.

Just two hours south of our how on 95, we have driven through Richmond plenty of times, but  never took the time to stop and explore this former capital of the Confederacy.  A really hot special from The Jefferson Hotel and a weekend forecast that promised plenty of sunshine finally tempted us to visit our state capital. What we discovered: Richmond is a charming, southern gem of a town. 

Here are the highlights:

One of the charming streets we explored in Richmond.

• The Virginia Museum of Fine Arts.  This lovely and free museum has an impressive collection of furniture and a nice selection of art from all the major movements.  Set in a lovely section of Richmond, the building fuses old and modern architecture and lives on a stunning campus surrounding by interesting sculpture and landscape.
• The Museum of the Confederacy. Although the museum is a little dated,  I am glad we visited.  I was especially impressed  by the tour of the White House, adjacent to the museum. We had a really fantastic guide who provided some really interesting details about life in the 1860s.
• The Hollywood Cemetery.  This 19th century cemetery is quite lovely to stroll around in and visit the graves of several U.S. Presidents as well as people connected with the Civil War.  Perched above the James River, it was particularly stunning when we visited--the dogwoods in full bloom.
• Exploring the Neighborhoods of Richmond.  From Carytown to Oregon Hill to Shockoe Bottom, we were struck by the bohemian, independent vibe and enjoyed wandering.  Lots of great little boutiques and restaurants to try.  We had a very lovely meal at Acacia, which is on the edge of the Fan District.

Playing Tourist: Some Tips.

Ah yes, it's cherry-blossom season in Washington, DC.  Spring is a lovely time in the Nation's capital.  Blooms everywhere, lots of pollen, too.  Oh and one other thing that comes out in hordes this time of year: tourists.

Experiencing tourists from the flip-side, as someone living and commuting with them, I have learned some good lessons on how to be a better tourist when I travel, especially when it comes to using the local transit systems in a strange city:

1.  Avoid Public Transit During Rush Hour.  Enduring cranky office workers who just want to get home is not exactly fun.  Plus, it's of course more crowded and the crowds are experienced public transit users who have little patience for you as a novice on their turf.  If you can, travel on transit slightly before or after the major rush hour times.

2.  When on Public Transit: Observation and Research are Key.  Every transit system has its quirks.  So do a little homework before you leave for your trip so you have an understanding of how fares work (zone, flat rate) and how the system operates (do I need to know the last stop to figure out direction, hours, etc.).  When you start to use the system, pay attention to locals.  Are they walking up the escalators?  On the bus, do they need to signal when it's their stop?

3.  Be Courteous.  Yesterday, a group of tourists were toting around a screaming infant.  It was the middle of rush hour on a packed train and they were just ignoring the fact that their baby was screaming their lungs out.  Hey, I'm not one to offer parenting advice, but it's royally unfair to force everyone else listen to screaming baby.  Also, if a train is quiet (as the Metro is during morning rush hour) keep your voice down.  No one else really cares about your conversation and office workers may be trying to catch a few more moments of sleep or peace before sitting at their desks.  When on a subway, if you do not have to get off anytime soon, move away from the doors so people can easily exit. 

Breaking Up a Journey into Distinct Legs = Sometimes a Good Thing.

We overnighted in the aptly named A Stone's Throw Away

Call me paranoid, but when I learned that the flight from Cat Island would arrive in Nassau just 90 minutes before our international flight back to DC (on a different airline and in an entirely different terminal), I had visions of missing the flight and rushing around to find a hotel, of learning that the next flight out was entirely booked, etc.  So I made a decision.  A decision I would recommend to anyone with a tight turnaround in a foreign airport with flights on different airlines: we flew in from Cat, overnighted in Nassau and then calmly flew home to Washington, DC the next day. 

Like many airports, the Nassau airport has an older terminal for all of its domestic flights and a completely separate space for its international flights.  Plus, the tiny hopper flight we took to Cat Island was operated by Sky Bahamas and we needed to get on a US Airways flight back to DC.  Ironically, we ended up getting into Nassau a full 30 minutes early and would have probalby had time to make the DCA flight on the same day, yet, we took the opportunity to explore Nassau by hopping on a local bus and going down to the center of the city where all the cruise ships arrived.  It's fantatically touristy, but we enjoyed the people watching and the 30-minute bus ride gave us a good, local view of Nassau.  We then spend the afternoon on the hotel's lovely deck admiring the ocean and sipping beers.  In the evening, we walked down the street for dinner on the beach.  Really, a lovely day and a nice way to cap our trip.  Our Hotel, A Stone's Throw Away, was literally a 3-minute drive to the airport and they offer a free ride so it was so simple.  Having a final day on vacation and to catch our breath sort of summed up the purpose of the trip.

This wasn't our first time breaking up legs of a journey.  On our way to Greece last year, I blogged about our stopover on both ends of our trip in London.  It would have been impossible to get from London out to Stansted, but we really wanted to limit our flights to two:one from DC to London and then one from London to Rhodes.  Stopping over in London made the trip calmer and offered a few days in an entirely different climate, too!

So, consider breaking up that journey and exploring a new place along the way. 

Cat Island: Things to Do.

Visiting the Hermitage on Mount Alverina is a must do.

When we booked our trip to Cat Island, I envisioned doing little beyond beach walks, making a dent in my reading list, and plenty of sleeping and napping.  After all, the island is sparsely populated and the point was a peaceful trip, full of limited human contact.  Beach trips, at least for us, tend to be low key.  

So we were surprised to find ourselves on the go the whole time.  Sure we got plenty of naps in and books conquered, but we also found ourselves breathlessly peddling up a sandy hill trying to reach the Atlantic Ocean or another time,  paddling furiously against the current of Pigeon Creek as sea turtles darted by.   The trip was unexpectedly active and we joked about about all the activities we crammed in...here's a sampling for those planning trips to Cat:

1.  The Hermitage on Mount Alverina.  The tallest point in the Bahamas at just 206 feet, Como Hill is worth the easy trek.  A Catholic missionary named Father Jerome--known for constructing many churches on Cat--built the lovely structure and lived there until the 1950s.  The hike takes you past memorials of the stations of the cross.  The views are pretty spectacular.

The old church found during a rain storm that sustained
damages from Hurricane Irene in 2011.

2.  Canoeing.  Our rental included a canoe and access to one of the interior waterways filled with mangroves, but also deep channels that lead out to the Exuma Sound.  We waited for the tide to roll in and dragged the canoe out to the deeper channel.  Although fighting the current and the brisk wind made canoeing tough for rookies, we were rewarded with sea turtle sightings!

3.  Biking.  Our rental also came with two bikes and we took advantage of them, exploring Bennett's Harbor, Alligator Point and biking the Atlantic side of the island near The Bluff settlement.  During our ride to the Atlantic, a sudden rain shower forced us to turn into a churchyard and seek shelter.  As we waited out the storm, we discovered a book detailing attendance.  The last entry was the week before Hurricane Irene, which did terrible damage to the island.  The island is still recovering from that storm.  As we stood there, under the new roof, I felt hopeful a new entry would not be too far off.

Alligator Point is one of the beaches we hiked to and found
ourselves completely alone to enjoy the beauty of Cat.

4.  Resort lunches.  We made most of our meals at the beach rental, but it was nice to have a few meals out and we drove up to Shana's Cove one day as well as lunching at Fernandez Bay Village Resort.  We also had an amazing lunch of conch ceviche and fried fish at Yardee's--a conch shack in Bennett's Harbor.  It's a must-do on Cat.  The open-air communal tables filled with friendly people chatting and waiting for their food or just shooting the breeze was an absolute delight.

5.  Hiking.  We did some serious hikes from walking out to the beaches near Man-o-War Pointe at the north end of island to our 3-mile trek to the deserted beaches near Alligator Point, you can easily find yourself alone with nature.  The chance to be so isolated, surrounded by perfect beauty was a special experience and one you can't find in many places anymore.

Just Back: Cat Island, Bahamas

Biking out to Alligator Point, Cat Island

The waving at first is a little unnerving.  Everyone waves to us or honks their horn.  Why? Do we have our brights on?  Are we not driving on the proper side of the road (it is the Bahamas where they do drive on the left hand side, after all)?  It's all very perplexing to a DC couple thinking every action has a secret agenda.  Um, maybe people are just this nice?  Maybe it's part of their culture to wave and greet everyone friend or stranger?

The friendly people is just one of the many discoveries you will find on Cat Island.  Strings of endless, sugary pink beaches, empty of people, is another. The island is 50 miles long and at times, 4 miles wide and is home to less than 2,000 people.  It's a peaceful place--full of old churches and nature surrounding you from all sides.  People do not lock their doors on Cat Island (our rental didn't even have a lock to lock!).  Some days, we saw more sea turtles and fish than actual people.  As I marveled at one point, I can't believe a place like this still exists on this crowded planet.  And it's so easy to reach: several flights from Nassau are offered every day and service two different airports on the island.  I'll write more in coming posts (and here are some photos of our trip to tide you over) about things to do and the wonder of visiting a Bahamian Out Island.  But let me leave you with a friendly wave, urging you to go discover the wonders of Cat Island.

Packing Food--some strategies.

This Saturday, the Traveling DINKs leave for a week on Cat Island.  48 miles long and 4 miles wide and home to just a few thousand people, Cat Island is a pretty quiet place.  Although there are a few small resorts, there are no five-star restaurants on Cat Island, nor are there grocery stores of the ilk we are used to frequenting.  We are not going to Cat Island to eat (our recent trip to New York covered that!).  We are going to relax, gaze out at the ocean (maybe swim and kayak in it occasionally), and take some great hikes and beach walks.  However, we do need to eat and although we will get some basics at the grocery stores on the island, we want to have some basics available for the first few meals and we also may want a few items we might not find on Cat.  Our trip to another out island Eleuthera a few year ago left us with some good tips on how to fly with food:

1. Pack lightly.  If you need to bring food, be careful on weight limits.  Check your airline to see what the maximum weight can be and go easy on the other items in your bags.  (Do you really need two jackets when one will work?)  Choosing light foods--oatmeal, pasta, cereals--are also smart choices.

2.  Know the rules.  Carry-on food must be liquid free.  For food items you are checking in luggage and you are flying internationally, be sure you do the research to ensure you are allowed to bring the food items into that country.  Most governments have helpful custom sites with this information.  If you are going to a resort or renting a house, you can also seek that information from those sources.

3.  Know what's already there.  We queried the caretaker to learn that salt/pepper and coffee filters are all provided.  We also know there are several shops are available.  When we traveled to Symi this past summer, we knew there were larger grocery stores because that island enjoys a daytripping population, so the need to pack food wasn't so important.

4.  Understand you aren't at home.  I am probably going to have to forgo my FAGE Greek yogurt next week.  I doubt I'll have good berries or salmon while on Cat Island.  But realizing you are privileged to visit a special place like Cat Island and that you are NOT at home are important reminders.  You eat differently when you travel and well, that's okay.

Wish us luck as we start to pack up our loot, here are some items we are definitely bring (if you're curious):

1. Ground coffee
2. Boxed wine (oh yeah!)
3. Pasta and rice
4. Granola
5. Instant oatmeal packets
6. Canned tomatoes, beans, soup
7. Peanuts
8. Several Trader Joe's packaged meals (Indian Chole, etc.)

2012 Travel Plans

I am a planner.  I can't help it.  Because Kevin has to squeeze out every day of vacation strategically, we take this time of year to chart our travels.  Without the dog, I anticipate we'll explore some weekend places that weren't as dog friendly.  We also have a few big trips on the horizon. Here's what we know so far:

One of the many gorgeous beaches of Cat Island.

1.  Cat Island (late January).  One of Bahamas Out Islands, Cat island has a small population (less than 2,000 according to Wikipedia) and yet is 150 square miles so the sparsely population paradise is a beach lover's dream.  We traveled to Eleuthera another Out Island a few years ago and basically loved every moment.  We're renting this beach house and plan to hike, kayak, read, cook and do a lot of chilling. 

2.  Weddings (April and June).  We have two of them in 2012.  One in Austin, Texas in late April and one in Raleigh, North Carolina in mid June.  We plan on bookending the weddings with a few days to explore both locations and take a beach trip with the family after the North Carolina nuptials.

3.  Anniversary (early June).  This year the Traveling DINKs celebrate TEN YEARS of wedded bliss.  This is crazy stuff, people.  And to celebrate this big event (June 1), we will treat ourselves to a meal at the Inn at Little Washington.  We plan on staying nearby at The Blue Rock Inn and visiting a few vineyards, taking a few proper hikes.  Early June is really one of the few windows of time that is nice in the Washington, DC region so it didn't make sense to travel somewhere too exotic and miss the fine weather.  (Now I have probably jinxed it and it will rain the whole anniversary weekend.)

4.  Boston-Hartford-Providence (late June).  June is going to be jam-packed for us in 2012.  I have a meeting in Boston so we are making a long weekend of it and visiting a relative in Hartford and then swinging over to Providence, Rhode Island for a few days.

5. Lyon and other locations in France/Switzerland TBD (late August).  A meeting takes us to Lyon, France in late August, but we have yet to fully construct a trip around the event.  We are either going to fly into Geneva or Paris and then take some time to visit either Dijon, Loire Valley, or Provence.  Stay tuned.  This is going to be an amazing trip!

6.  San Francisco and the Big Sur (early November).  Another meeting takes us to San Francisco so we plan on wrapping in some time to visit Hearst Castle and probably as far south as San Luis Obispo.  This trip is still so far out that we have not firmed much of it up just yet.

7.  Weekend Jaunts (throughout 2012).  We know we definitely want to visit Richmond (yeah, honestly we've never really explored this city just two hours away), the Northern Neck and probably a beach or bay trip.  A lot of these trips will be more last-minute variety (again the luxury of being dog-free for the moment) and be based on the weather conditions.

8.  Ohio (summer of fall 2012).  I am sure we will find ourselves back in the home state to visit family, friends and maybe take in an Ohio State game. 

I'm sure more travel plans will pop up, but it looks to be a full and fun travel year!

New York at Christmas: a road map



Enjoying Korean food at BCD Tofu House.

We have never experienced Christmas in a hotel and this year, with Beau's loss still hanging over us, we decided to give it a try.  We took the train up to New York City and spent two nights in the Ace Hotel, which is a very easy walk from Penn Station.  On our way to the hotel, we made a lunch stop in Korea Town at BCD Tofu House, a chain from California that makes a phenomenal tofu stew.  If you think you don't like tofu, try the silky kind at BCD and you might change your mind. 

The Ace Hotel's lobby is quite the scene--very hipster, very cool.  It's dimly lit 24/7 and has a shabby chic decorating approach.  I'll admit I was skeptical of this hotel, but the location and the amazing deal we nabbed on Travel Zoo ($149 night, thank you very much), well I was willing to give it a try.  The staff were friendly and our room was spacious, the bed was comfortable.  Plus, it was quiet despite being in a busy part of town.  I could quibble with the shower, but overall, I would recommend this hotel for anyone who likes an easy walk from the train station and a lot of major sites (both downtown and Times Square are easy walks).

We hit the ground running with a happy hour extravaganza at The Pony, which serves only American Craft Beer.  After a few rounds with an old pal, we headed to dinner at db Bistro Moderne for a pre-Rockette meal.  I had an amazing piece of skate in beurre blanc sauce while Kevin had sea bass in a red wine reduction with figs.  We then headed to Radio City Music Hall to see the Rockettes!  I must say, the production was cheesy and over-the-top, but it was fun and I'm glad I went once in my life.

Rockefeller Center all glammed up

After the show, we sauntered over towards Rockefeller Center and took in the tree, the ice skaters, the crowds (filled with people at 11 pm on a cold night)--it was thrilling and magical.  One of the observations we took away from the moment was how diverse the crowd was; in fact, I would wager most of the people did not celebrate Christmas, but the Christmas spirit is bigger than a religious holiday.  I like that.  I like it very much.

The next morning we feasted on bagels at Brooklyn Bagel & Coffee (you just cannot get bagels like that in DC) and then we walked up to Macy's to check out the holiday windows and on to Bryant Park Holiday Shops.  I love Bryant Park.  The space has a European feel to it with its ornate green buildings.  We then made our way downtown to Eataly, the Italian food emporium and hall created by Mario Batali and Lidia and Joe Bastianich.  It was swarming with people, but we enjoyed wandering the aisles.  Next up was lunch: John's Pizzeria on Bleeker in the West Village.  We are repeat visitors to John's.  The coal oven does something amazing to the crust.  Just get a plain cheese--trust me you'll love it.  We wandered further south the Jacque Torres Chocolate shop on Hudson in seek of a wicked hot chocolate.  At this time, we were seriously bursting but both ordered small hot chocolates and happily slurped them down and bought a tin to make more at home!

For Christmas Eve dinner, we had one more culinary trick up our sleeves: a proper Feast of the Seven Fishes meal.  This time we headed to The Hearth in the East Village.  We had a lovely meal and wandered back to the hotel along empty streets humming Christmas tunes.  The next morning, Christmas morning, we had the streets to ourselves and trekked up to Scotty's on Lexington for a proper diner breakfast.  The diner was packed and it reminded me that not everyone gets Christmas off.  Before heading back to DC, we made one more homage to Rockefeller Center for a final glimpse of the holiday magic.  Of course, it was still filled with people snapping pictures and smiling.

London: a lovely stopover.



Kevin in front of Tower Bridge during our 1-day stop.

When we travel, we strive to have few connections and for the trip to take the fewest hours (because who likes the actual act of getting from Point A to Point B?).  This means we are willing to pay a bit more for nonstop flights and it also means loyalty to a specific airline is not that easy. 

Getting to Symi, Greece this summer was not possible in one simple flight as it was when we headed to Vienna on Austrian Airlines later in the year.  Because of turmoil on Athens, we also made the decision we wanted to fly directly to Rhodes (the island with the closest airport to Symi). 

We made the decision to book a flight on our favorite airline Virgin Atlantic to get from DC to London.  Spend a day and night in London and then book a flight on our least favorite airline Ryanair to finish the trip and arrive in Rhodes in the middle of the afternoon in time for lunch and the afternoon hydrofoil. 

A pretty pub in South London near the Globe.

We strategically booked a hotel in the financial district because (1) we had not really explored this part of London and (2) the train to Stansted Airport (more on that in a later post) left from Liverpool Street Station, which was right around the corner.  We stayed at the Apex London Wall, which was sophisticated and tucked on a quiet street. We dumped our stuff and headed towards the Thames, walking by the Tower of London and crossing the Tower Bridge into South London.  Walking the footpath along the Thames, we passed the Globe and stopped into the Tate Modern, which I had not visited since 2002 so it was time for a return visit.

We stopped for a requisite fish-and-chip lunch and a warm ale (it was surprisingly brisk for late June!) before heading back to shower and relax.  It was fun to be in London's Financial District on a Friday afternoon in June.  Office workers packed all the pubs, literally people were pouring out of the establishments and empty pint glasses littered the sidewalks.  We decided to visit Brick Lane in the East End for Indian food as one must have Indian food when visiting the UK from the US. Before we reached Brick Lane, we stopped at a pub to have a pre-dinner drink and take in the Murray/Nadal semi-final match being played nearby in Wimbledon.  Murray lost.  We finished our pints and headed to dinner.

Brick Lane is quite the experience.  As you walk down the street, restaurant staff badger you, imploring you to come into their establishments, promising the best deal on the street!  It's not a typical scene for London, but it was fun for an evening and after wandering the street for a bit, we decided on a place and had a lovely meal before wandering back to the hotel.

Holland Park, London.

On the flip side of our journey from Greece, we also spent a day and evening in London.  This time, we chose to be on the Piccadilly Line near Earl's Court.  We stayed at a small, boutique hotel called Twenty Nevern Square.  It was situated on a leafy square and an easy walk from Holland Park.  We enjoyed wandering through the green streets and park space, reveling in the lush plants after the arid climate of Symi.  We found a Thai restaurant right outside Holland Park and enjoyed a break from the Greek taverna fare that had dominated our dinners.

The blur of monument and nature: Brompton Cemetery

The next morning we had a chance for one final walk through the streets of London and we stumbled upon Brompton Cemetery.  We were charmed by the wild, yet managed space.  Because it was early morning, we had the cemetery to ourselves and quietly strolled along the path.  Overhead, international flights rumbled in for landings at Heathrow.  As we made our way to the gate to collect our luggage and head to the airport, I took a deep, appreciative breath that we were able to bookend the trip with breaks in London.

Travels with Beau: a tribute to our four-legged travel companion.

Beau enjoying a morning walk along
Holden Beach, North Carolina

One of the reasons the blog has been quiet this year (despite some great trips) was a lot of my energy was devoted to caring and then mourning our dog, Beau.  Within days of returning from our trip to Asia in January, Beau had a mysterious discharge from the one side of his nose.  Trips to the vet and then a specialist vet theorized he most likely had a tumor (we chose against a $3,000 rhinoscopy to confirm this).  You can look up nasal carcinoma; it's a bleak outlook.  There's little to do and eventually they have seizures or bleed to death. With Beau inching to 13, we decided to make his final months on this planet as comfortable as we could and when the time came, we allowed him to peacefully pass.  He did make it to his 13th birthday and boy, what a wonderful life Beau had with us!  Some of our happiest memories come from our travels with Beau. 

He started his adventures at just six weeks old, riding all the way from Columbus, Ohio to Athens, Georgia.  He was still so tiny his belly grazed the ground, picking up red dust from the famous Georgia clay.  Beau traveled to the beaches of Florida and North Carolina (at least 8 times).  He hiked through the Shenandoahs.  He paddled through the Potomac, the Chesapeake Bay, the Olentangy River, Lake Erie and countless other streams, ponds and rivers.  He was shuttled back to Ohio for holidays and family visits more times than I can count.   For 13 years, he was a steady road companion and we picked up some good tips from our travels with Beau:

1.  Cars.  Start young, travel often.  As I said, Beau was taking major road trips as a tiny puppy.  His early exposure to long car trips made traveling easy.  He was comfortable and at ease.  If you do not have any major car trips planned when you first get your dog, be sure to at least go on regular day trips to trails and parks further from your home.  Get them used to highway driving as well as quick jaunts around town.  The earlier and more frequent car trips, the calmer your dog will be in the car. 

Anne and Kevin along Skyline Drive in Virginia
heading to a memorable cabin weekend.

2.  Provisions.  Fill up a jug of water and keep a few treats with you for longer trips and day trips.  Both of our cars were always stocked with tennis balls, waste bags, and towels for park and water trips.  When traveling to a destination with your dog, bring their dog bed (if it fits!) and several extra towels and sheets to cover furniture and keep your dog's paws clean and dry.

3.  Pet-friendly rentals.  The Web makes it so easy to find places that can accommodate your dog.  One of our favorite rentals in Holden Beach, North Carolina, was discovered from the Real Estate company's Web site as you are able to narrow down your search to just pet-friendly options. 

4.  Research before you go.  Before you take your pet, spend some time researching the area to ensure it will be a positive experience.  For example,  the beaches of North Carolina are pet-friendly most of the year, but in the high season, dogs in some communities are prohibited from 9-5.  Ocean City, Maryland does not allow dogs on the beach at all during high season. 

5.  Be respectful.  As a dog owner, I cleaned up after my dog, kept him leashed when I was supposed to, and realized that not everyone loved my dog.  Be a good pet owner and keep the rental property clean and try to keep your dog on their best behavior.  If you are staying with friends or family, remember to thank them profusely for including your dog in the trip. Sending a little note afterwards would be a good idea.

Traveling with Beau was a joyful and happy experience for the DINKs.  We miss our old pal, but have so many happy memories from our adventures. 

The DINKS blog is back!

So, I know it's been almost since months since I wrote a blog post.  With summer travels and an ailing dog (who has now sadly passed), I just put this blog on the back, backburner!  But it's time to catch everyone up on what the Traveling DINKs have been up to.  Stay tuned in the coming weeks for posts on:

The DINKs in Pedi on the island of Symi, Greece.

1. Symi, Greece
2. Austria
3. Princeton, New Jersey
4.  Travels with Beau the dog

Summer Travel Plans.

After a quiet spring, we are about to embark on a pretty full slate of summer travel plans.  Other than a few days in Salzburg and Graz, most of the cities and countries we'll visit are not new, but that doesn't mean we won't be able to make new memories.  Plus, there is a certain ease when traveling to a familiar place.  I was just in London last September so the Underground will be easy to use as will the Vienna Metro as it's just been a few years since I visited there.  Here's a run-down on our adventures:

1.  Symi, Greece (with two days in London).  This trip has been in the works for a while and will be a special one.  We are going to spend a solid week on the island of Symi, a tiny island in the Dodecanse region of Greece, which is 12-island chain close to Turkey in the Aegean.  Most importantly to me, the island is where my father's parents were born. 

The clocktower in the harbor area of Symi, Greece.

We have not been back since 2005 and we are not going alone.  My sister, my parents and Kevin's parents are all coming.  It's truly a family affair!  Kevin's parents have not been to Greece and it will be nice to share the experience with them as well as spend time with my family.  Plus, having my Dad there, who speaks Greek fluently will be rather nice!  We chose two villas (Villa Cassandra and the Pitini House) in the upper village that we booked through Symi Visitor.  I highly recommend this rental agency as they have some wonderful properties and are easy to work with--being incredibly responsive via email. 

The family reunion will only be during the week in Symi.  The parties will then split up and tour and vacation in different ways and locations.  For Kevin and me, we will bookend the time in Symi with time in London.  We are flying directly to London and then taking a flight from London to Rhodes and then a ferry onto Symi, bypassing Athens this time.  I think it will be nice to enjoy a few days in London on either side of the Greece trip.  London is a city we both enjoy and have traveled to enough to feel at ease.  We'll spend one night in the financial district, close to Liverpool Street Station (as we have an early flight from Stansted and need to take an express train out to this distant airport).  On the way back to the US, we will stay near the Earl's Court Station, which is on the Tube line to Heathrow.  When traveling to London, I do think strategically about location as having an easy walk to the trains and being able to get back to the airport with all your belongings without transfers is really nice!

2.  Chicago.  In late July, we are taking a long weekend to visit friends and enjoy Chicago.  Growing up and attending college in the Midwest, we both have lots of acquaintances in the Second City.  (Meaning we do not have to worry about hotels as there is always some place to crash!)  Another dear friend from Brooklyn is joining us for the weekend so we really will have a memorable time catching up with folks.  Plus enjoying a break from the DC summer will be lovely.

Giant Mozart ball sculptures, Vienna, Austria.

3.  Vienna and Salzburg, Austria.  At the end of the summer--right around Labor Day--we are heading back to Europe.  This time, we'll be in Austria.  Although we were just in Vienna a few years ago, a meeting is taking me back there and we really loved our last visit, it will be nice to go back and see a few of the sites we were unable to see the first time around.  We will also be staying in a different section of town.  During my meeting, I'll be staying in the MuseumQuartier, which is a lovely part of town and allows me an easy commute on the UBahn to the Conference Center for my meeting.  After the conference, we will take a train to Salzburg, which will be new for us.  We plan on doing the Sound of Music Tour (um, why go to Salzburg and NOT do this!) and we may take a daytrip out to see the Hitler's Eagle Nest Retreat.  We also may take a daytrip from Vienna to Graz, the second largest city in Austria and a place we have not been or back to Krems and the wine country of the Wachau Valley, which runs along the Danube and is basically beautiful.

Taking a Taxi: Just Beware.

When I travel, I avoid taking cabs.  They are obviously expensive and I like the thrill of navigating a city on public transit, but the bigger issue for me:  I don't trust cab drivers. 

I will make one exception to this rule:  cabbies in the UK are honest, kind and you should feel comfortable taking a ride with them.  Bill Bryson also sings their praises in his book Notes from a Small Island. So if both Bill Bryson and I have had amazing UK cab experiences, they must be okay, right?

We had this cab driver in Belfast who was taking us to get our rental car and was passing along little tips and directions for us as we were planning to drive up the coast to County Antrim.  When I confided in him that I heard Irish drivers could be impatient and we'll most likely be taking our time on the curvy road, he turned to me as said, "Love, you don't worry about anyone behind you.  Just be safe."  So if you are in UK and feel like spending a small fortune or really just want to ride in those vintage, black taxis, well go for it.  You have my blessing.  Anywhere else though: beware! 

I'm not trying to be dramatic.  From Miami to Mexico City, I have had sketchy situations with cabs.  Some pretend they didn't hear the hotel or street; others pretend that they forgot to turn on a meter; others do not give change back properly...I have a long list of grievances here, which has given me pause. But the reality is, you cannot always hop on a train or subway or just walk, sometimes you need to take a cab.  Here are a few important tips if you must take a taxi:

1.  Know where you are going.  When I'm traveling, I study a map so I see cross streets and have a good sense of where my destination is in the city.  For instance, Philadelphia is on a grid system and I took a cab from 30th Street Station to the Rittenshouse Hotel, close to 20th Street.  When I saw we passed 20th street, I queried the cab driver who thought I said the Ritz Carlton, not the Rittenhouse Hotel.  I leave it up to you to determine if the cab driver made an honest mistake or deliberately took us 5 city blocks out of the way in rush hour, almost doubling the fare.  (You can probably assume what I believe happened.)  Smartphones are super handy these days in pulling up maps in the cab or as you are in the taxi queue so you are always prepared.

2.  Know the system.  It would be nice if all cabs used the same method--meters, flat fares, negotiated rates, but alas, the world is a big, inscrutable place so how the fare is determine varies.  Before traveling to a new location, always do a quick check of taxis from the airport (a lot offer flat fees) as well as if it's okay to hail a cab from the street (it's not okay to do this in Mexico City, for instance). 

3.  Be smart.  Always be alert.  Study the road to ensure you are going in the right direction.  And, if you feel uncomfortable, trust your instincts and just  ask the cab driver to pull over and get out.

You don't want a whole trip spoiled over a scheming cab driver. If you follow these tips and take taxis only sparingly, you should be okay!

Resort Review: The Excellence Riviera Cancun

I like to travel independently, for the most part.  Book the hotel, book my own flight, discover restaurants using local resources and maybe, if lucky, stumbling upon a place during a long stroll (how I discovered one of my favorites, in London--Sofra Mayfair). But let's be honest, sometimes you want an easy vacation--one that requires you to show up with a passport, appropriate clothes and sunscreen and  little else.  About once a year, I require sort of trip...call it planning fatigue or whatever.  And, all-inclusive make this possible. If you have a vision of all-inclusives being filled with partying college students, watery drinks, endless buffets and everyone forced to wear paper bands, you have not been to one of the Excellence resorts and need to go--immediately!

A lazy river weaves through the property, making
 it easy to have a chair poolside and pick a quiet spot.

In December 2009, Kevin and I spent 4 days at the Excellence Riviera Cancun.  We had never been to the Yucatan and wanted to take advantage of a nonstop flight from Dulles.  I didn't want to stay in the Hotel Zone and I didn't want to deal with the wristbands or standing in line to make reservations.  I wanted an all-inclusive, but one with some class.  I can definitely report that the Excellence Riviera Cancun delivered and exceeded our expectations.

First of all, if you haven't done the Cancun thing--, think again because there are plenty of quiet, relaxing options (just erase the Senor Frog images from your head, okay?).  The best thing about Cancun is the airport--it is the best airport in the Caribbean.  Easy, efficient--it is deft at processing tourists who just want to get to the beach!  We were out of the airport in minutes and picked up by our pre-arranged transfer service (I told you I didn't want to think, not even to negotiate a cab fare). 

Kevin enjoying the view from our private, spacious terrace.

Situated just 20 minutes from the airport on the outskirts of the village Puerto Morelos, the resort is set back from the road and really no other resorts are nearby.  The buildings are low--just 3 stories high so it's easy to use the stairs and the property is really spread out, weaving fountains, pools and loads of lovely gardens between the lodgings.  We were welcomed with a scented, warm towels and champagne and immediately taken to our rooms (this is less than an hour after our flight landed, I should remind you--and less than 4 hours after leaving cold, DC).  We spent the rest of our trip in an easy pattern:  coffee on the terrace, breakfast early, long beach walk, camp out on some pool chairs for the rest of the morning--drinking, napping and reading, maybe a swim, lunch, more of the same relax activities and drinks, late afternoon beach walk, shower, nap, dinner by 8, another beach walk, drinks and perhaps listen to some live music. 

As far as breaking down the various aspects of the resort...

The Rooms:  Very spacious--huge terrace, bathroom, well-stocked  mini fridge, a little sitting area and a big, four poster bed. Very tasteful and open. 

The Food:  The resort offers buffet breakfast or room service (included in all inclusive), but the other meals are at sit-down restaurants scattered throughout the property.  Reservations are not required and I think only at one did we have to wait a few minutes for a table. The food was really solid--I think we liked Agave, the Mexican place the best.  As far as all-inclusive resorts go, this place deserves an "A" for diverse food, gourmet food and minimal buffet lines.

The Entertainment:  We aren't so into shows and such, but they always had some nightly events.  We preferred the live jazz performances and other musical acts that they always featured outdoor near one of the bars.

The beach was nice and the staff kept it clean and tidy.

The Location: Positioned an easy drive from the airport, the resort is great for what we wanted--a quick, easy trip.  The beach was nice and the resort did a good job keeping it tidy.  We enjoyed several good beach walks and made all the way down to Puerto Morelos a few times.  But not really a walkable location--but really being at an all-inclusive for just a few days, we didn't strive to do much.

The Resort:  Lovely, manicured grounds, lots of seating--no need to rush out and "save" spaces, staff were friendly.

Choosing the Right Hotel.

I just had to book a couple of rooms for our trip to Greece this summer (we are bookending our time in Greece with time in London).  Since I have hotels on the brain, figured I'd blog about it and share a few ideas:

1.  Location, location, location.  Duh, that's a no brainer, right?  But choosing the right location for you really varies based on the purpose of your trip.  For instance, our flight to Rhodes leaves quite early from London Stansted so for this trip to London, I chose the Apex London Wall hotel--an easy walk to Liverpool Street Station, which is where you catch the Stansted Express train.  This hotel sits in the Financial District, which is quiet on weekends and not maybe ideal for tourists, but for our specific needs--it's perfect!  On the flip side of the trip, I picked a more central location, Earl's Court, which is on the Picadilly line--the line that leads directly to Heathrow.

Our hotel in Amsterdam was an easy walk
to the Central train station.

2.  Transportation.  This definitely dovetails with point one.  Ensuring your hotel is an easy walk from a subway line or central train station will only enhance your trip.  I always map out my location on Google Maps and read TripAdvisor to get a sense of the location.  (This also helps you gain a familiarity with the area even before you arrive.) When in Europe, you know urban areas are going to have decent transportation--so take advantage of it!  A good example from our travels is Hotel New Amsterdam (now known as Chic & Basic) in the Jordaan.  The location--a somewhat residential neighborhood (which I loved) is an easy ten-minute walk to the central train station. 

We stayed in the borough of Frogner on the second leg
of our trip to Oslo...the first part we stayed more central.

3.  Know thy neighborhoods.  When visiting a city for the very first time, I spend a good chunk of time just researching neighborhoods.  Of course, I am thinking about safety, but also I am considering my personal tastes.  If I know people who have visited a city, I'll ask them about areas they would recommend, too.  I also like to stay in different locations on repeat visits.  For instance, when we went to Spain a few years ago, we stayed for the first part of the trip in the heart of it all--the Austrias quarter, which is in the center of Madrid, close to the Palace and shops, cafes, and of course...subway stops (the Opera Metro station).  On the way out of Spain, we chose to stay up near the embassies and business district in the Salamanca region of the city--also easier to reach the airport from this location.  We did the same thing for a trip to Oslo a few years back--staying at the front-end of the trip in a central section of town and on the way out picking a quieter, more tranquil section of Oslo, the Frogner borough near the famous Frogner Park.

4.  Use all available resources.  I use TripAdvisor and Frommer's as the two main places to explore lodging options.  If I find a hotel I like, I always go to the hotel's Web site to check for specials.  Using Google Maps to see the location and the "search nearby" option on Google Maps will bring up restaurants or other hotel choices. 

5.  Consider your priorities.  Is it all about saving some cash?  Would you prefer a hotel that has breakfast included?   Do you like big chains that are reliable or funky, small boutiques?  Do you avoid the B&B concept because you hate country kitsch?  Do you have to have a pool?  Good views?  There are a million more questions, but be clear on your top needs and you'll find the perfect place. Happy Searching!

Difficult to Reach Destinations.

This summer we're heading to Symi.  Have you heard of it?  Probably not.  But it is an important place in our family--some of the DINKs ancestors are from there, lived there for generations. Symi is a (tiny) island in the Dodecanse region of Greece.  It's a two-hour ferry ride from Rhodes (which you have probably heard of, but still not exactly and easy-to-reach destination).

Symi, Greece. Beautiful. But not easy to reach.

Because of a wide range of issues, we have a limited window for traveling and plan to spend a whole 7 days on Symi with the extended family.  So the challenge: how to get to Symi as quickly as possible?  There are no direct flights to Athens from DC.  And, well the Traveling DINKs HATE changing planes, but we have done Dulles to Paris to Athens before and that's not too bad, but prices on Air France were crazy and we would still need to fly to Rhodes and then ferry it to Symi.  So we wanted to see what else was out there.

We used Expedia and Orbitz to see what other options were out there and discovered we could fly to Rome or Istanbul direct.  We then decided to explore an airline we knew didn't surface on Expedia and Orbitz--the dreaded (but grudgingly used) Ryanair from Ireland.  We have used this low-cost carrier for strange hops in the past (Grenada to Madrid and Belfast to Glasgow). Sure enough, there was a flight from Rome to Rhodes--allowing us to bypass Athens.  But the times didn't work out so we started looking at Turkish Airlines--thinking of flying from Dulles to Istanbul, spend a few days in Istanbul then on to Bodrum, Turkey and then a series of ferries to Rhodes, then Symi.  But doing this route completely blows our plan for a short and  simple route out of the water, plus the timing wasn't exactly awesome for all the different pieces. 

I decided to search Ryanair one more time as they have multiple options into Rhodes from all over Europe.  And low and behold!  A new flight announced from London Stanstead!  So I snapped that up allowing us to fly Dulles to London and then onto Rhodes.  Perfect and Easy.  Bookend the trip with a few nights in London (allowing us to have a couple good Indian meals and wander around one of our favorite cities) and able to bypass Athens and then zip over to Symi on the many ferries that move between Rhodes and Symi each day.

So to sum up the tips:  Start with the big search engines to explore all your direct flight options; then see what low-cost carriers have to offer; don't hesitate to reach out to local travel agents.  A travel agency in Bodrum and Symi both confirmed ferry service timetables for me and cemented my feelings that the fewer ferries, the better.