Difficult to Reach Destinations.

This summer we're heading to Symi.  Have you heard of it?  Probably not.  But it is an important place in our family--some of the DINKs ancestors are from there, lived there for generations. Symi is a (tiny) island in the Dodecanse region of Greece.  It's a two-hour ferry ride from Rhodes (which you have probably heard of, but still not exactly and easy-to-reach destination).

Symi, Greece. Beautiful. But not easy to reach.

Because of a wide range of issues, we have a limited window for traveling and plan to spend a whole 7 days on Symi with the extended family.  So the challenge: how to get to Symi as quickly as possible?  There are no direct flights to Athens from DC.  And, well the Traveling DINKs HATE changing planes, but we have done Dulles to Paris to Athens before and that's not too bad, but prices on Air France were crazy and we would still need to fly to Rhodes and then ferry it to Symi.  So we wanted to see what else was out there.

We used Expedia and Orbitz to see what other options were out there and discovered we could fly to Rome or Istanbul direct.  We then decided to explore an airline we knew didn't surface on Expedia and Orbitz--the dreaded (but grudgingly used) Ryanair from Ireland.  We have used this low-cost carrier for strange hops in the past (Grenada to Madrid and Belfast to Glasgow). Sure enough, there was a flight from Rome to Rhodes--allowing us to bypass Athens.  But the times didn't work out so we started looking at Turkish Airlines--thinking of flying from Dulles to Istanbul, spend a few days in Istanbul then on to Bodrum, Turkey and then a series of ferries to Rhodes, then Symi.  But doing this route completely blows our plan for a short and  simple route out of the water, plus the timing wasn't exactly awesome for all the different pieces. 

I decided to search Ryanair one more time as they have multiple options into Rhodes from all over Europe.  And low and behold!  A new flight announced from London Stanstead!  So I snapped that up allowing us to fly Dulles to London and then onto Rhodes.  Perfect and Easy.  Bookend the trip with a few nights in London (allowing us to have a couple good Indian meals and wander around one of our favorite cities) and able to bypass Athens and then zip over to Symi on the many ferries that move between Rhodes and Symi each day.

So to sum up the tips:  Start with the big search engines to explore all your direct flight options; then see what low-cost carriers have to offer; don't hesitate to reach out to local travel agents.  A travel agency in Bodrum and Symi both confirmed ferry service timetables for me and cemented my feelings that the fewer ferries, the better.

Portrush—Don’t Stay Here! But Eating Here is Okay.

This old Victorian strucuture was a coverted coffeeshop
and really the only nice building in Portrush.

So County Antrim is pretty empty and wild.  Hotel choices are few and hotels that actually have Web sites are even fewer.  So I do understand why Kevin chose Portrush.  It’s one of the larger villages and the hotel we stayed in is recommended in the books by Rick Steves (a Rick Steves’ tour was actually there during our stay).  But based on my experience: Portrush is a seedy dump.  And that’s putting it nicely.  Trailerparks ring the city and there is an empty, decaying feel to the central section. There are a few Old Victorian buildings that still give the place a regal, vintage feel, but most of Portrush is rundown and filled with arcades and fish-and-chip shops.  We also had the misfortune of being in Portrush during some sort of annual air show.  I think all of Northern Ireland attended and traffic was a pure nightmare.  We seemed to be the only people not there for the air show.  I did learn an important travel lesson: if you are going to a rural location that cannot manage traffic, best to find out if there are any holidays/festivals/events happening.  Because we could not find parking in Portrush, we spent the late afternoon at a hotel on the highway outside of town and watched a wedding reception gather.  We also enjoyed a nice walk on the beach as the rainy morning turned into a sunny afternoon. 

Samples of the vast array of door signs.
Our favorite: "Hard of Hearing."

The hotel, itself, was tired and I found the staff unfriendly, which is pretty amazing as most of the Irish we encountered were among the friendliest people on the planet.  They had a parking garage, for instance, but wouldn’t let us use it to park during the air show.  Their attitude was: well, it was a well-publicized event so we (as foreigners not two days in the county) should have been well aware of it!

I would urge travelers to try to stay in the very tiny village right next to Portrush, Portballintrae.  They have at least one hotel, the Bayview Hotel, which has favorable reviews on Trip Advisor.

Being an easy 10-minute drive from Portrush, you can take advantage of more restaurant options.  We had a solid Italian Meal at Don Giovanni’s in Portrush and one of the better meals of the entire trip, an elegant dinner at 55 Degrees North . 

The tiny village of Portballintrae (standing on the outskirts) would have been a better place to stay in our view.

Giant's Causeway

Besides taking in the rural and rugged coast of Northern Ireland, The DINKs wanted to check out the UNESCO World Heritage site known as The Giant’s Causeway.  Folk legend Finn McCool (Fionn mac Cumhail) allegedly built the causeway to walk to Scotland and battle his Scottish counterpart Benandonner.   One version of the legend tells that Finn fell asleep before he got to Scotland. When he did not arrive, the much larger Benandonner crossed the bridge looking for him. To protect Finn, his wife Oonagh laid a blanket over him so he could pretend that he was actually their baby son. When Benandonner saw the size of the “infant,” he assumed the alleged father, Finn, must be gigantic indeed. Therefore, Benandonner fled home in terror, ripping up the Causeway in case he was followed by Finn.  This legend corresponds with geologic fact: a portion of the same geologic wonder (aka “causeway) is visible in Staffa, Scotland. 

Giant’s Causeway is actually 40,000 basalt columns (some 12 meters high) created during ancient volcanic eruptions 50-60 million years ago.  I’m not going to go into too much detail, here.  I’ll let the pictures speak for our impressions, but hiking on and around Giant’s Causeway should be on everyone’s “bucket list.”

Singapore's Dynamic Food Scene.

Everyone told us we would really enjoy the food in Singapore.  I have to admit: I was skeptical.  I am not a huge fan of Asian cuisine.  I don't mind it, but it's just not something I crave.  But after visiting Singapore I realize why I have never particularly craved Asian food--I just have never had good, authentic versions of it.  Because of the diverse cultures that make-up Singapore's population, you can eat Malay, Thai, Korean, Chinese, Indian, and a hybrid food that is Malay-Chinese called Peranakan.


Food vendors are highly regulated in Singapore.  Food stall owners are forced to post their grades from the health department--A, B, or C so customers know the sanitary conditions.  You can either find these vendors clustered open tent structures or more bricks and mortar, still open air structures called Hawker Centers.  There are several famous ones, such as Maxwell Road in Chinatown or Newton Circus, but there are small ones peppered throughout the city.  One night, we stumbled on a small, Hawker Center with about ten food stalls and a clutch of tables being staffed by a lively barmaid.  You order your food and then go to a different stall and order a beer and then staff from the stalls bring your food to you and you pay them.  The range of foods at these stalls is impressive--stir-fry noodle and rice dishes, dumplings, kebabs, soups, and each vendor tends to specialize in chicken or beef or seafood.  Because of the diverse population that includes Muslim and  Hindu, halal and vegetarian options are in abundance.  Not only are the choices impressive, food is dirt cheap.  We averaged spending $10 per person and that includes one or two beers.  Although hotels are pricey in Singapore, food and public transit make Singapore a destination for travelers of all price points.


Kevin and Chris eating at the Maxwell Road Hawker Center in Chinatown.



Besides the Hawker Centers, a slightly more tame version of the vendor scene can be found in the plethora of malls that are literally on every corner and part of every MRT station in downtown Singapore.  To escape a rainstorm on our first day, we scurried into a mall near the Botanical Gardens and enjoyed an amazing meal of spicy squid.  We continued to eat our way through the food courts and hawker centers during our visit, usually eating at least one, if not two meals there each day. 

I can say that I never tired of the fresh, stir-fried meals and now crave Asian food--at least the kind you can eat in Singapore.





Sentosa Island—very faux, but very fun.

Heading to Sentosa Island via the cable cars.

Full disclosure: I haven’t been to Disney World since I was ten and other than passing through the airport, I haven’t been to Las Vegas so I lack the expertise of faux kingdoms and do not necessarily seek them out.  Still, we had heard a lot about Singapore’s Sentosa Island so for my one, conference-free day, we decided to check it out. 

It’s easy to reach Sentosa and there are a lot of ways to get there: by car via a bridge, by monorail, by ferry, and if you want to pull out all the stops—by cable car.  We chose to splurge and live it up—we took the cable car!  I had not been on a cable car in years—and realized, I’m not a huge fan of being suspended from a tiny cable, but the views of Singapore and Sentosa were worth the queasy knot in my stomach. 

Anne taking the luge ride down to Silosa Beach.

As you approach Sentosa, you notice there is a flurry of construction still going on.  You also notice a giant stone lion head emerging from a jungle tangle.  Sentosa is home to a Universal Studios, a Casino that costs $80 just to enter, and an array of other amusements and attractions.  It’s like Singapore’s very own theme park and I could see how it’s a great little family retreat for locals.

As we climbed out of the cable car, they offered to sell us a picture of us in the cable car.  As you step out of the cars, you are assaulted by a shop filled with souvenirs and little tables filled with knickknacks and one table with a guy offering you the amazing chance to hold a snack and have a picture taken—uh, no thanks! 

And every aspect of Sentosa is an amusement--luge rides, chair lifts, water shows, aquariums, rock walls, sand volleyball courts, trapeze and tight-rope walking opportunities.   We scurried over to the luge, which affords you the opportunity to ride down to the main beach—Silosa—in a seriously fun way and then take a chair lift back up to the top.  I have to say, the luge ride was a blast and I had a dopey grin on my face the whole time.  Of course, photos were snapped and offered to us for sale.  As we took a few candid shots on the way down, we declined the opportunity.

Kevin examining a fake rock on the man-made beach.

We spent the rest of the daytrip, wandering the manmade beaches and little islands (connected by piers and rope bridges) of Sentosa.  We lucked out and had a rain-free day (the only one of the trip!).  It was a Thursday so it was pretty quiet.  The beach walks were pleasant and the faux rock boulders and little islands dotting the way were charming.  I have to say, I enjoyed our beach stroll.  We stopped for some overpriced beer and bad pizza at a beach bar, but sitting on a terrace watching the quiet afternoon go by made up for the food.  As Kevin observed, we counted Sikhs, Indian, Chinese, American and many other tourists/locals enjoying Sentosa—all happy, all seeking a quiet afternoon.  Moments like that make the world feel smaller and that our differences are not so vast.  Who knew we’d find such a philosophical lesson on corny Sentosa Island?

Singapore’s MRT: The Greatest Subway in the World.

I am not prone to hyperbole so the title of this blog entry is stating the truth: I was blown away by Singapore’s public transportation infrastructure.  Efficient, cheap, vast, it was everything you could want in a transportation system.  I think a lot of cities and countries could learn a few lessons by studying the MRT (are you listening Metro?). 

The plastic card you recycle for a deposit after a trip is complete.

First, let me list my qualifications as to why my opinion is valid.  I have been a commuter on DC’s Metro for the last 10 years.  Besides my daily commute, I have used the New York subway, the Boston MBTA, the Chicago CTA, the London Underground many times.  I have also tried San Francisco’s BART, Prague’s Metro, Metro de Madrid, Athens’ Metro, Paris’s Metro, Vienna’s U-Bahn, the tram systems of Amsterdam and Oslo, and many bus lines across the United States, Mexico, and Europe.  So this isn’t my first rodeo on a subway.

Why I Love Singapore’s MRT…let me count the ways…

1.       Ease of use.  From the machines to the clearly marked signs, it is very easy to use.  Fares are determined by destination, but the machine makes it so easy to calculate cost.  You pick “single trip” and the “select destination” and a map of the system appears and you touch the station you need to reach.  The price is calculated!  A plastic ticket is then dispensed.  When you are finished with your trip, you return the plastic ticket to a machine for a dollar refund. 

2.       The station agents are actually helpful.  Because the machines only give 4 dollars or less in change,  I needed to get change a few times and the station agents kindly make change for you—asking how many tickets you plan on getting so you have enough coins versus dollars.  

3.       Clean.  Probably not surprising, considering the city of Singapore’s reputation, but no litter, no food—sparkling, shiny new feeling throughout the stations and trains.

Arrows direct traffic flow making it smooth and quick.

4.       Quick.  The longest I had to wait for a train was maybe 4 minutes.  We took the trains at all hours, over weekends, etc., and never had to wait long.  You are also kept updated by computer monitors about the wait times. 

5.       Scope.  The subway allows you to reach huge swaths of the city and the amazing thing is the system is still growing.  We had Lonely Planet travel book from 2009 and an ENTIRE LINE wasn’t even on the subway map.  IT HAD BEEN BUILT IN TWO YEARS.  They are in the process of connecting the National University of Singapore (where I had the conference) with the subway.  I’m guessing if I go back there next year that will be completely done.

6.       Etiquette.  The helpful arrows on the floor, allow for traffic to easily flow out and onto the trains.  The stand on the right is reversed here (British colonial times to thank), but quicker walkers were able to move to their pace.  Seats were given to elderly passengers, quickly and without a fuss. 

7.       Safe.  Brightly lit stations, which were full at all hours.  Plus, glass walls separate the platform from the track so there is no way to fall onto the rails--I had never seen this before and it makes so much sense.

8.       Cheap.  The cheapest subway I think I’ve ridden on. Most rides were less than $1USD, even during rush hour.

9.       Finally…the escalators were glorious.  All functioning!  And, they move at quite the clip compared to the slow Metro escalators.  They were utterly magical.

I'm too tall to ride free, but it's cheap so that's okay.

Singapore: Opening Thoughts

I am interrupting my diligent postings on our trip to the UK from last August to share some musings about our trip to Singapore.  I had heard mixed feedback from friends who had been there.  Some gushed. Others found it boring and soulless.  I have to say after visiting Singapore, Kevin and I fall in the gushing category--I loved it more than I ever thought I could.  This was our first trip to Asia and I have to say, Singapore is a great "gateway" trip for those wanting to ease into exploring Asia.

Business district of thoroughly modern Singapore.

First of all, it's easy.  No language barrier.  Safe. Clean.  Efficient.  Brilliant transportation infrastructure (I plan to devote an entire post the my love of the MRT--Singapore's subway).  Being ignorant about Singapore's history, I did not anticipate the diversity of this tiny city state. Chinese, Indian, Malay and countless other ethnicities live together.  Religious diversity is also obvious with Churches, Buddhist and Hindu temples and Mosques scattered across Singapore.

I will post about more about the trip in the coming weeks, but I have to say our trip to Singapore was fantastic and I returned impressed and inspired.